British cheesemakers have seen a welcome surge in sales thanks to the ban on raw milk soft cheeses from France and Italy, but supply chains could be strained as Christmas orders build this month.
As previously reported, Defra has banned imports of French and Italian raw cow’s milk cheeses, made after 23rd May, due to outbreaks of Lumpy Skin Disease in cattle in both countries, leaving gaps in counters that are being filled by British alternatives.
Suffolk-based Fen Farm, which makes Baron Bigod, saw orders increase 18.5% between mid-July and mid-August, compared to the same period last year, equating to nearly two tonnes more cheese. “We’ve gone from making four days a week to five,” said co-owner Jonny Crickmore. “We’re using every drop of milk at the moment and it means the age profiles of our cheeses have come down.”
Highland Fine Cheeses in Scotland, which makes Morangie Brie and Minger, saw a 20% increase in orders over a similar period, with a 36% jump during the second week of August. Meanwhile, cheese wholesalers are stoking demand by recommending British alternatives. “We have not recommended other Continental cheeses for fear that it (the disease) could move there also,” said Harvey & Brockless purchasing director Nicky Philp.
Defra partially relaxed restrictions last month by allowing thermised cheeses to be imported, but there is little sign raw milk cheeses will be allowed back with cases increasing. Longer aged cheeses like Tomme de Savoie and Roquefort will be affected the longer the ban lasts, while wholesalers are negotiating to bring in Vacherin Mont d’Or from Switzerland as a replacement for French raw milk Mont d’Or at Christmas.
“I have to make decisions now for Christmas and we are making substitutes as we go along in regards to online orders,” said Patricia Michelson at La Fromagerie. “I am looking at cheeses from Spain, UK, Ireland that will be suitable. Mont d’Or is something that we will take a big hit on if the ban continues.”
Whether British cheesemakers will be able to meet increased Christmas orders is not clear. “We can only make so much,” said Crickmore at Fen Farm. “We already sell everything we make at Christmas, but hopefully we can improve yields from our milk.”
This article first appeared in the September issue of Fine Food Digest.
