UK cheese retailers were left reeling this summer after the Government introduced a ban on imports of raw cows’ milk products from France and Italy – following an outbreak of lumpy skin disease in herds across the two countries.
Fine food purveyors were struggling to get hold of certain unpasteurised lines including pecorinos, bries and camemberts as shipments were stopped at ports in the wake of this major animal-health scare on the Continent.
Other produce from France and Italy that was travelling on the same pallets as banned items was also sent back, leaving many businesses with gaps on shelves and fears over price increases.
The Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) acted swiftly to suspend imports of certain bovine commodities when outbreaks of lumpy skin disease were confirmed. Although exemptions were brought in, most unpasteurised cheeses made after 23rd May in France or Italy were not allowed into the UK as FFD went to press (see box).
Andrew Postlethwaite, sales manager at Mons Cheesemongers, which has four outlets across London, described the ban as “incredibly damaging”.
“Brie and camembert have been the big losses but I know colleagues at other businesses have been hit by other raw milk cheeses,” he added. “We have a good stock of many things but they will run down as the ban continues.”
Postlethwaite said he feared for producers and maturers “who depend on cheeses crossing borders”, saying many were “small farmhouse producers already in a precarious situation” and facing a devastating loss if unable to serve the UK market.
He added that confusion at customs over the date element of the ban could lead to more produce being rejected than necessary.
Andy Swinscoe, co-owner of Courtyard Dairy, said the Yorkshire specialist had a pallet of mixed produce including unpasteurised cheese in transit when the new rules came in.
“It got held, sent back to Italy, taken apart and they took cheeses off then put some back on when the dispensation came through, and in all the confusion we ended up with frozen octopus sausage as well, which I can’t do anything with.”
Swinscoe said raw-milk pecorino was unable to get through customs while wholesalers had “gaps here there and everywhere”.
Antonio Picciuto, owner of Buongiorno Italia, said the Hertfordshire deli had been able to source the cheeses it needed but was missing out on other produce.
“One of my Italian fruit suppliers in Covent Garden market, who also supplies fresh Italian cheeses, is experiencing major checks of his lorries at the border,” he said. “They can arrive up to six hours later than usual, which means I go home without the speciality fruit and vegetables my clients expect.”
What has been banned and why?
The UK Government acted swiftly after outbreaks of lumpy skin disease were confirmed in Italy on 21st June and in France eight days later.
Although it does not affect people, the illness can be severe for cattle and some other species, so import restrictions were in place by 1st July.
As of 14th July, Defra said import of milk and dairy products made in France or Italy through a lower heat treatment than pasteurisation, which is classified as 72°C for 15 seconds, was not allowed unless they had undertaken an ageing or maturation process that started before 23rd May.
A Defra spokesperson said: “This Government will do whatever it takes to protect British farmers and their herds from disease. We have strengthened protections by temporarily suspending imports of a small amount of products from Italy and France, following outbreaks of lumpy skin disease across Europe.”
Katy Fenwick, technical director at the Academy of Cheese, said Protected Designation of Origin cheeses including Brie de Meaux, Camembert de Normandie, Epoisses and Taleggio could be caught by the ban. She added that younger Tomme de Savoie could also be rejected by Customs, while more products could fall foul of the rules as time went on.
This could include Roquefort, Ossau Iraty and eventually young Grana Padano and 12-month Comté, Fenwick warned.
Paul Heasman, supplier relationship manager at importer Rowcliffe, said Defra guidance and communication had been “poor” and called for more explanation of when and how the ban might end.
He added: “In order to get any cheese, the level of paperwork required on both sides of the water has increased and every vehicle movement is followed with a high degree of trepidation.”
This article first appeared in the August issue of Fine Food Digest.
