Independent retailers have had to act reactively and take measures to adapt to climate change in recent weeks as three extended heatwaves in the spring and early summer tested their resilience.
Deli and farm shop chiefs tackled a raft of challenges created by an unprecedented run of high temperatures across swathes of the country in late spring and early summer.
Morgan McGlynn, owner of Cheeses of Muswell Hill, said the north London retailer suffered a damaging fridge malfunction during a regular early-week closed period in late June.
“I opened up on a Wednesday and found I had fondue,” she said. “We lost thousands of pounds of stock.”
“It all went in the bin and we had to replace it and buy a new compressor for the fridge.”
McGlynn has since taken steps to prevent a repeat disaster.
“Not only have I got CCTV, a Ring doorbell and a baby monitor, I now have a compressor alarm so if it goes down on a Saturday night, I will know about it and move stock to other fridges,” she said.
Lisa Gartell, head of operations and guest experience at Teals, said the Somerset deli and farm shop had made its own adaptions to cope with high temperatures.
It switched to closeable chillers after problems with open fridge units last summer, and has changed how it keeps its fresh fruit and vegetables.
“In May there were some cabbages wilting so we had to reduce displays and keep a lot in the chiller,” said Gartell.
“Some cheese suppliers use couriers who delivered produce above temperature, so we couldn’t accept it. We have ordered the same cheese from different suppliers to guarantee the condition.”
Passing trade at Teals has been down because “people don’t move in the heat”, while buyers have had to rapidly switch from chocolate to ice cream and soft drinks.
Meanwhile Gartell has found herself clearing tables in the restaurant when waitresses had to leave early because their children’s schools closed.
Antonio Picciuto, proprietor at Hertfordshire deli Buongiorno Italia, said dry, warm weather was “always welcome”.
But he added: “When we have really hot weather, it is too hot to eat alfresco, so there isn’t that surge in summer sales.”
A study by researchers at the Met Office and the University of Exeter found that a heatwave in 2022 led to higher energy costs, failure of fridges in “numerous retail facilities” and impacts on livestock and wheat yield.
This article first appeared in the August issue of Fine Food Digest.
